#Hemera disassembly install#
Now I am at the point that the pla creates a small blob at the gears and I have to remove the entire assembly to clear the jam.All I did was install the v6 so I'm not sure what I could have done to cause this.The PTFE tube is fully seated and this is now my 9th or 10th time of having to remove the hemera to resolve the issue. However almost each print job with pla required that I unload\load the same filament back in to have a successful print. Reattach the fan using x2 self-tapping screws.Hello all, I am new to the forums and have an issue with my Hemera jamming.I've had it installed since first release and initially noticed that I would occasionally have to unload then reload pla otherwise the hotend looked to be clogged.this happened on the very first print so I heated the hotend, removed and reloaded and was able to print just fine. Make sure to check if the square nuts are still in place as you will have to undo the assembly later if one is missing at this stage.ĩ. Reattach the heatsink and fasten the two M3 x 20 screws. You may need to apply a little pressure on the idler arm to make sure the drive gear is seated correctly.Ĩ. Insert the new drive gear into the sink, ensure the bearings are pressed onto the shaft. then the filament jammed up the nozzle, had to completely disassemble. To make this step easier ensure the tension is set to it's the lowest setting otherwise you will be fighting against spring pressure unnecessarily.ħ. The E3D Hemera i think was a great upgrade. Two views A and B are shown above, they represent the same step from two different viewing angles. Undo the x2 self-tapping screws that fasten the fan and it should pull away from the heatsink. Make sure to locate the spring in the channel highlighted in B. Slide the idler assembly back onto the dowel pin in the heatsink, if the dowel pin is in the motor side remove it and reinsert it into the sink. A E3D hermes/hemera mount for ender 3, without needing extra screws (for those like me dont have other screws lying around). Press the idler hobb back into the idler gear making sure that hobb section is on the same side as the short pin housing.Ħ. Pop the Idler Hobb out of the Idler, using an Allen key, or small screwdriver to provide a lever-action makes this easier.ĥ. tried same 3dmodell over 10 times now around 5 hour print and cant. The Hot Side kit contains: 1 x E3D Hemera heatbreak 1 x Brass V6 Nozzle (1.75mm, 0.4mm) 1 x V6 heater block 1 x V6 silicone sock 1 x Thermal compound. i have only completed around 5 short PLA print and 2 TPU prints and now it does not let me coplete at all. You will find it easier to complete this step with the idler tension set to it's lowest setting.Ĥ. need to dismatle the gears and but it back together to make for for 5minutes to several hours. First step in disassembly: get the two hex bolts out Two mounting holes on all sides The bolts that hold the H2 together are accompanied by split lock washers which are supposed to prevent the bolts getting loose (not if you ask NASA) After the bolts are removed, the two parts that make up the direct drive extruder assembly can be pulled apart.
Remove the x2 M3 x 20 heatsink screws, this should allow the heatsink to be removed from the motor. Undo the x2 self-tapping screws that fasten the fan and it should pull away from the heatsink.ģ. Should you need to disassemble Hemera for maintenance. There is absolutely no room for error with the drive mount screws.
#Hemera disassembly mods#
After a couple mods I think I have the layout for the mount settled. I have the duct and mount printed, and I've taken the Ender5 apart. If you try this while still at temperature you will risk serious burns.Ģ. Filament tension is increased by rotating clockwise and decreased by rotating counterclockwise. Hemera Direct Drive and Hot End Well, it got delivered.
Unscrew the HotSide from the main body.Įnsure that the unit has completely cooled down to room temperature before attempting this. Replacement drivetrain gears can be purchased hereġ. You will then see the white part come out of the idler creating more tension on the spring. You keep tightening the idler knob well after it hits the end. If it's not, calibrate e steps per mm using the following formula until you consistently extrude 100mm of filament. So I disassembled the extruder and found out the middle gear of the drive trai. Take a measurement from the bottom of extruder block to the tip of the extruded filament and verify it is 100mm. I noticed the drive train gears not moving. Before you begin it's important to mention that you should try to avoid dropping the gears or removing any grease before assembly. I finally figured out how the Hemera idle tension works. Send gcode G1 E100 F300 to tell the extruder to extrude 100mm of filament.
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